Postscript by Seamus Heaney
And some time make the time to drive out west
Into County Clare, along the Flaggy Shore,
In September or October, when the wind
And the light are working off each other
So that the ocean on one side is wild
With foam and glitter, and inland among stones
The surface of a slate-grey lake is lit
By the earthed lightening of flock of swans,
Their feathers roughed and ruffling, white on white,
Their fully-grown headstrong-looking heads
Tucked or cresting or busy underwater.
Useless to think you’ll park or capture it
More thoroughly. You are neither here nor there,
A hurry through which known and strange things pass
As big soft buffetings come at the car sideways
And catch the heart off guard and blow it open
At some point, when out west, we reach for this poem. It’s when the magic of the place begins to work on you and “you are neither here nor there, a hurry through which known and strange things pass” We are travelling to Inis Turk a portal to the vast Atlantic, a tiny island off the west coast of County Mayo. Leaving Roonagh Pier, the boat hugs the waves and my sister hugs a wooden bench clinging on to dignity amidst the swell. It seems like too long a way, too bumpy a ride, too wet to enjoy.
Once there, as the islanders out west always claim, the sky clears. The little village is bustling with cars as passengers are gathered up by some of the 58 locals, and swept off to their various rooms and lodgings all over the 4×8 kilometres stretch. There is no need for NCT tests out here by the looks of it and the cars are assorted and ancient. A good plate of beer battered pollock and chips settles the system and we ramble on to the old harbour, the cliffs, the turquoise sea and the silver sandy beaches. Later we swim in waters which seem as clear and as blue as any in ancient Greece.
What struck me most about Inis Turk was the small community of enterprising islanders who made us feel so welcome. They run the community centre, have to spend time giving directions to windswept tourists and carry on a harsh enough life, making ends meet and maximising the local resources. It’s difficult even in my most romantic moments to imagine living here.
As we pull away from the island that evening, “when the wind and the light are working off each other so that the ocean on one side is wild with foam and glitter,” we look back at mystical Inis Turk, in the silvery evening, and we sigh……
Thanks for sharing the beauty of this island I would love to visit it one day
Thank you! I’m trying to make a point of getting to see all our off shore islands, this one was really lovely and very much away from the tourist trail which I love. Might bump into you again around the Deise, seriously hard to beat anywhere in the world!!!!
You are certainly a hardy enough gal, hope your sis did okay, too. I like the people of this island, at the end of the ride it must have felt wonderful to be swept up and fed. That last image is just dreamy, for sure!
Susan thank you my dear! I find I am less and less hardy or is the Atlantic getting colder??!!!
I’m so glad that we get to experience your beautiful country thru your eyes…gorgeous scenery and your words just float in the air…
O thank you Robin! I’m a little in love with it all at the moment travelling the roads once more. So sweet of you x
Such a beauty! I wish I’ll have the chance to visit these magical places some time. And cloudy skies are my favourite ones.
Dear Amelie I hope you come some day and see those cloud factory mountains that make all the rain!! Yes cloudy skies are the very best x
I’ve never been to that island, Catherine, but after reading your post and seeing your lovely photos I now want to go. It sounds wonderful.
There are so many islands to choose from out there Jean. But I would especially recommend Inis Mean and Inis Turk, and Skellig Michael……although gird your loins the boat trips are a bit of a challenge !!!
I don’t mind the boat, too much. When we went to Inis Oírr a good many years ago, the sea was so choppy it was like being on a roller-coaster, lol. Mind you, I hate any rides like that, but on a boat I never mind it.
The old iron constitution Jean! Good woman, then go for it. I will never forget my first time going to Inis Oirr and the cattle being lowered into the currachs below and the heaving up and down…..OMG I’m not the best at the old sea travel. Haha!
To be fair, we took the bigger boat. About fifteen tourists had to be rescued off the tiny one they were in because the sea became to rough for it. Our trip over from the mainland was delayed because our bigger boat had to go pick them up and bring them back to the quay. I would have boarded the smaller boat but my husband said ‘no way’ and paid more for the larger one – sensible man. 🙂
Jean I rest my case! A man after my own heart!
*sigh*
Beautiful – and you can go for the day……….
Yes you can go for the day and eat at the community cafe with the best view in the world at your feet!! Thanks for making the trip with me….virtually…..:~)