It is almost by accident that I am here in Lisbon this week. But I have always wanted to come. My eyes are relieved to have this change of scene from green Ireland and the Saint Patrick’s Day shenanigans. Instead Alfama, where we are based is warm and peachy.
No shortage of washing lines and crumbling doorways here in Lisbon. I’m travelling light with only one multi purpose lens. So the restriction is a challenge. But as always I am drawn to the small and the domestic.
It’s hard to research a foreign city and pick a spot to stay when you are a first time visitor. Alfama, chosen because it is one of the oldest districts, is wonderful. Lisbon was never bombed during World War 2 and therefore most of the city has retained it’s sea of red roofs, layered balconies and cobbled streets. Our hotel, Convento do Salvador is a renovated convent almost at the top of the Alfama hillside of lanes. It is also a children and young people’s non profit organisation, serves the perfect breakfast, and is a quiet minimal sanctuary.
Restaurant Chapito nearby is also a non profit cultural organisation with the most incredible roof top dining rooms and bars. It mainly functions as a circus training project. So absorbed was I in trying to photograph the amazing interior that I fell flat on my face over the corner of a step and instantly had the attention of the entire project! The staff were very sweet and soothed my bruises with a glass of champagne. Excellent medicine!
We are staying on the route of the number 28 tram. It trundles it’s way up the hills, around the bends and at one point pins me to the wall when I get into the wrong corner at the wrong time. Something about the trams and the winding streets makes you feel like you are on a 1920’s film set. Once seated on the tram, it is tempting to stay there all day. So much so that they insist the tram is vacated at the terminus.
The streets are slow and easy in the mornings. Local people are laid back and relaxed. We are here off season and keep remarking to each other how quiet the place is. Our plans are to get to know Alfama, visit the Castle on the top of the hill and take the train to Estoril to see the Atlantic.
Easy does it!
Chapito-this is what I fell on my face for!
I love that third picture there of the three waiters having a chat in the doorway of their café!
Sneaky street photography is a bit easier when you are in a foreign city. They just look and go, “Silly tourists!!” Thanks!
Oh how I love Southern European cities! Those won, sun warmed cobblestones! Reminds me of the South of France…sigh…hope you’re bruises are healing. That champagne is a wonder drug indeed!
oos I meant ‘worn’ sun warmed cobbles!
O yes Kerry, cant get enough of those sun worn, foot worn cobbles. As long as you don’t trip, which I seem to be making a habit of! Luckily I seem to have bounced off their wooden floor!!
I really enjoyed these, Catherine, and your previous ones; your delight in what you photograph always spills over and glows! After Greece, I taught in Portugal for a few years, further north, but visited Lisbon as a weekend tourist. It’s such a beautiful, photogenic city! Like you, I bumped into a lot of folk and things as I back and side stepped while photo-hunting. I wanted to capture as much as I could of the richness of the place and had a thing for taking photos of alleys, windows, rooftops and balconies back then. There was a lot of tripping! We’re aiming to go back to Portugal some day when we’re sure we won’t get that haunted feeling you often get when you revisit old ‘homes’. I hope you enjoy the rest of your stay – thank you, as always, for letting us travel with you!
Hi Janice. How interesting your journey was. I love Greece too. I’m sure Lisbon doesn’t change too much over time,don’t worry. I was delighted to find very little Starbucking of the place. Something that makes travelling more and more bland. If you go back check out that little hotel. (I’m not one of those commercial bloggers btw I have NO vested interest. Just thought it was wonderful, ethical and affordable!) Thanks for your comment, it has led me to your own blog ……a haven of peace.
I love Lisbon, your photographs are beautiful, Catherine. We rented an apartment for a week in that area, near George’s castle, one of my best holidays ever.
Thanks Jean. O great to hear that you liked that area too, Alfama. The castle is amazing. The whole place is like a museum. Would go back in a flash…….
We took a taxi tour to Sintra and it was great value as five of us shared the cost. The driver brought us to Cascais on the coast and then inland to Sintra. You would love Quinta da Regaleira. If you’ve never been it’s well worth the trip next time you go to Portugal.
Sintra looks amazing Jean, I just googled it. Thanks for the tip. I’ve also heard that Porto is a special place. Another to add to the list maybe!
Have a look at the virtual tour of Quinta de Regaleira in Sintra. I hope this link works. It’s so beautiful. http://www.regaleira.pt/visitavirtual/video/
Wow! A real gem!
Gosh…loved Lisbon and we traveled around the area as well. Beautiful country! Glad you got to check it out!! So many places to see…so little time!
Loved it! Little gem…